THE BRAND
FROM EXPERIMENTAL DESIGNER TO LAIDBACK LUXURY — that's 20 years of DUTCHESS!
Gwen van den Assem, the designer and founder of the brand, was born with a strong dose of creativity. Creating and designing has been in her blood from an early age. The decision to study Fashion Design at the Art Academy (St. Joost in Breda) was an easy one — and one she successfully completed.
In the first years after graduating, she worked as a stylist for various styling agencies and within the theatre and dance worlds.
Her work in styling sparked a desire to create her own designs. A friend who owned a gallery offered her an opportunity that would mark the beginning of Dutchess: she was invited to exhibit six experimental pieces in his gallery. From there, she took the leap to develop her designs into a wearable collection. She rented a clothing rack at Nieuwe Ontwerpers, which eventually led to a spot at Modefabriek. She didn’t go unnoticed there either, resulting in multiple retail points in both the Netherlands and Belgium. Dutchess began to flourish.
Back in 2005, she was still working out of a warehouse — living upstairs, studio downstairs. But by 2012, the brand had grown to the point where it earned a place in Rotterdam’s creative powerhouse, the Van Nelle Fabriek. What once was her dream — “I lived nearby and every time I cycled past, I thought, one day I want my studio here too” — is still her reality in 2025.
STILL INSPIRED BY HIGH-QUALITY FABRICS.
While Gwen mainly designed dresses 20 years ago, today the brand is best known for its trousers, tops, and suits. “That shift happened organically. The spirit of the times played a big role in it. Women have become more comfortable wearing trousers, and the demand for two-pieces — trouser and top combinations — has grown.”
Over the years, the use of materials has become more colorful, and prints appear more often in the collection than before. Still, at the core, Gwen has remained true to herself throughout these 20 years. Her signature style remains clearly visible and recognizable. “I can see that my design language has only become stronger. What has changed are the tasks around designing. By now, I’ve become a true entrepreneur, managing a team. Where I used to do everything myself 20 years ago, it has now become a real company — and I’m more than just a designer.”
Her preference for high-quality, natural fabrics remains her main source of inspiration. Throughout the year, she regularly visits trade shows in Paris and Milan to get a feel for different fabrics. Texture, material, color, and print become the starting point for a creative puzzle with fabric swatches. With this foundation — combined with her creative talent and a clear image of her customer — she begins the design process at her drawing table.
“Inspired by experimental designers like Martin Margiela, menswear tailoring, detailed finishes, and French classics, I always search for a ‘clean style’ through experimentation. Whether it's a specific fabric, a particular shape, a distinctive stitch, or a stylized pattern, I add a twist to the classic design. That’s how the Laidback Luxury style emerges — the essence of Dutchess, dressing women with elegance and strength.”
Using high-quality fabrics and natural materials is not only a source of inspiration for Dutchess — it’s a requirement. “For 20 years I’ve deliberately chosen to create sustainable collections. That’s why I enjoy working with small family-run ateliers in Portugal, and why our fabrics are mainly sourced in Italy. My designs are truly investment pieces — both the design and the craftsmanship that goes into every collection are made to last. That’s the foundation of beautifully made, high-quality clothing.”
FASHION TODAY
In addition to her own boutique and Dutchess’s retail partners, Gwen has noticed that more and more customers are now buying her brand online — something that would have been unimaginable 20 years ago. “The world of online shopping has influenced my inspiration. Fashion is no longer strictly dictated, because the world feels closer, and with that, there’s more to choose from. Everything is possible — from mixing and matching to bold use of color, from the new to the classic. Within that, I still follow my own instinct and chart my own course, which allows me to let go of the dominant fashion trends. Sometimes I follow them, and sometimes I completely don’t. The fact that I operate within a niche market also contributes to that freedom — it gives me more room to move. In that sense, it fits perfectly with today’s more liberated fashion culture.”
DUTCHESS IN THE NEXT 20 YEARS
“That still feels a bit too far ahead — I prefer to focus on the next 10 years. I want to continue building the brand step by step. I’d love to expand the collection with knitwear and accessories, like shoes and bags. Opening more stores of our own is also on my wish list. But for now, I’m mostly grateful that over the past 20 years I’ve been able to do what truly makes me happy: designing for women who, just like me, appreciate beautiful clothing and quality.”